Lives of the people along the Mekong River in Laos

 

The Mekong is the longest river in Southeast Asia. It boasts rich biodiversity and breath-taking wilderness. The river originates in the Tibetan Plateau and is over 4300 kilometers long. The face of the river is ever-changing: at points, it flows slowly through tropical landscapes, at others, it plunges through steep gorges. The Mekong is the lifeline of Southeast Asia. It is a transport route for millions of people, bringing work and food to many countries. It flows from China, through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, to the South China Sea. It is one of the longest rivers in the world. Over 1200 different species of fish live in the Mekong, making it one of the most species-rich inland waters on earth. The ecosystem of the river has been disturbed due to the construction of dams, sand mining, and climate change. The fish populations have been declining in the Mekong. It has been more difficult to catch fish from the rivers because the river and the weather have changed a lot, says the dwellers. A third of the country's population is under 15 years old.

Settlement along the Mekong River in Laos.

Laos is located in the heart of Southeast Asia a relatively small country, about half the size of France. Laos is more rustic and less touristy than its more developed neighbours like Thailand and Vietnam. It is a country steeped in ancient tradition and known for its relaxed, meditative way of life. In the mountainous north of Laos lies the tranquil city of Luang Prabang. Many call it the most beautiful city in Asia. Luang Prabang is the former seat of the Royal Family and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city has a population of about 70,000. The historic old town is known for its unique charm and architecture. As evening falls, the night market of Luang Prabang stirs to life. And it is not only popular with the locals. There is a huge variety of food on offer. It is a feast for the senses. For the equivalent of 50 cents, one can enjoy Laotian soups and meat in banana leaves. The most popular thing that sells is Mok Kai (a traditional Laotian dish), which is seaweed from the Mekong.

And if you stay up late enough, there is something completely different to see come early morning. In Luang Prabang, religion determines the rhythm of the city. At 4 a.m., the monks begin their morning prayer. The monks in the temple chant every day to honor the deeds of the Buddha. Chanting is a form of meditation for the mind and body and teaches the monks to be calmer and better people. Many parents want their sons to try and become monks. But many older men also want to experience the life of a monk. After the prayer, hundreds of other monks walk silently to the old town for the almsgiving ceremony, called Tak Bat, an ancient Buddhist ritual. As a Buddhist monk, working for money is forbidden. So, the monks receive food donations from devout Buddhists every morning. For the people, it is an honour to donate because it increases their chance of a better reincarnation. Traditionally, all monks walk barefoot. In the summer, when it sometimes reaches over 40 degrees Celsius during the day, they are allowed to wear sandals. The country's traditional spirituality is becoming increasingly entwined with tourism. The ritual of the monks has at times become a tourist spectacle. The donations they received during the almsgiving included rice, stew, pumpkin soup, sausages, lamb, steamed flowers, and steamed fish in banana leaf. The monks remain silent even during breakfast a particular challenge for the children. Boys can join the monastery at the age of 10. Many families from the region enter their children into the monastery so that they can learn from the monks. Some children want an education but their families can't afford the school fees. At the temple, monks are taught subjects like English and math. This is a great opportunity for young people to learn. But also older people who have no family or feel lonely join the monks to find peace here.

Digitization even has a place in the Buddhist monastery these days. The monk regularly live stream their prayers and meditations on social media platforms. There are more than seven million people in Laos, who belong to lots of different ethnic groups. The government divides the inhabitants into three regional groups:

The highland Laotians who live in the mountains, the hill people, who live on the mountain slopes, and the lowland Laotians, who make up the largest share of the population. Almost two-thirds of all Laotians live from agriculture. Many are from rice cultivation - the staple food in Laotian cuisine. Traditional rice cultivation involves a lot of manual labour. When the rice plants are one month old, they move to the fields, where they have more space to grow and help prevent weeds. The tourists help to replant them. They can grow rice all year round. But normally, the local farmers only do it two times a year.

It takes four to five months for the rice plants to ripen for harvesting. This stage is also hard work. The tiny rice grains are hidden at the top of the stalks and need to be removed from the panicles. Traditional farmers thrash their rice by hand. The Laotians use it to make their sticky rice. The Mekong River forms 800 kilometers of the border between Thailand and Laos. And there are visible differences between the two sides. While on the Thai side, there are lots of modern buildings, on the Laotian side there are small traditional villages, surrounded by nature. There are also a few tourist boats sailing on the Mekong.

Along the Mekong River, many people live in poverty and many houses are in poor condition. Laos is a poor country, and the coronavirus crisis has compounded the struggles of the Lao economy even further. But with the easing of the pandemic and China's New Silk Road, Laotians hope the economic situation will improve. Slowly things are picking up again. At least in the villages, people benefit from the free natural building material that surrounds them. Some people even build their houses completely by themselves from bamboo. Bamboo is an important resource for many people across Asia. It is a fast-growing natural material that can be used not only to build houses and furniture - many also use it as firewood. The people also grow Chinese ginger, also called fingerroot. The plant is related to ginger, but the taste isn’t quite as spicy. The root is used as a spice in Thai curry - and in China, and as a medicinal plant too. It's good for achy arms and legs, headaches, and dizziness.

Typical village along the Mekong River.

A few of the plants are growing just behind each house. We dig them up with all the roots. But we also use the leaves. We cut the roots into Chinese ginger originally comes from the mountainous regions of China. But today it has grown across most of Southeast Asia. Once a year, they sell almost their entire harvest to China, because that's where they earn the most money. And they can live well from it.

Vientiane is located directly on the banks of the Mekong River. It is a charming city with its many temples, bustling markets, and historic buildings. Traditions are preserved alongside a more modern way of life. Despite the setbacks of the pandemic, Laos has made good strides to cut poverty and hunger over the last 20 years. It is also a country of great beauty, rich culture, and serenity.

There is an old Lao proverb that says: The wise do not hurry, and those who hurry are seldom wise. And it perfectly synchronizes with the Laotian way of life.